Handling & Restraint Improper handling may cause serious, life-threatening injuries. Fractures and dislocations of the back, most often resulting in paralysis of both rear legs, are the most common injuries. These injuries occur when rabbits are suddenly frightened and attempt to escape from a small enclosure. A rabbit’s spine is relatively lightweight and fragile. When a rabbit becomes frightened, it violently struggles by powerfully kicking its back legs. The lightning-fast movements of the rear legs cause overextension of the lumbosacral (lower back) region of the spine, which frequently results in fractures or dislocations. One should never try to overpower a struggling rabbit. If a rabbit violently resists physical restraint, it should be immediately released and approached later when it has calmed down. A soft-spoken, relaxed approach with rabbits works well. Covering the eyes and lightly stroking a rabbit will usually result in a hypnotic-like trance that often renders them less prone to panic and injury. Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears. If you are concerned about being scratched by the claws, place a towel over the rabbit’s back and wrap it around the body to restrain all 4 feet before picking up the rabbit. An alternative method of picking up a rabbit involves sliding one hand under its breast bone and grasping both front legs between the fingers of this hand. The other hand is then gently worked under the rear quarters to fully support them as the rabbit is lifted upwards, in the same manner as cats are held.
Food & Housing
Food Feeding pet rabbits is easy because nutritionally complete and balanced commercial pelleted diets are readily available. One of these pelleted diets and fresh water are all a pet rabbit requires. The pellets should be offered at all times unless overeating and obesity have become problems. Clean, fresh water also should be available at all times. The pellets should be as fresh as possible when purchased and should be purchased in relatively small quantities. The pellets should be stored in the refrigerator to prevent premature spoilage. Pellets that will probably not be used within 2 months of purchase should be frozen immediately after purchase. Refusal to eat rancid pellets is a relatively common cause of inappetence among rabbits. Fresh water should be offered daily, either in a bottle or in a heavy ceramic dish that cannot be easily overturned. Many hobbyists find the hanging drop-style bottles most satisfactory. The water container, regardless of the type used, should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected at least every 1-2 days. Good quality hay, grass, alfalfa or clover and/or grass clippings should be offered daily. Some researchers believe this practice reduces intestinal problems and the tendency to pull out and chew on hair. Other food items (lettuce, spinach, alfalfa sprouts, carrot tops, beet greens, carrots, apples, etc.) can be offered in small amounts daily. These food items should not be offered in larger amounts because they are water-rich and lack the nutrient density of the pelleted diets. Furthermore, many rabbits develop a preference for these items over pellets if they are offered in large quantity. Some rabbit owners provide salt licks for their pets, but experts do not regard this addition as a necessity. Many rabbits love to gnaw and chew on their cage and on items within the cage. A well-boiled roundsteak bone (marrow removed) and/or small dog chew toys are often accepted as challenging gnawing substitutes. Many veterinarians recommend adding pineapple or pina-colada yogurt to the daily diet. Most rabbits willingly accept the yogurt, especially if they are introduced to it at a young age. Yogurt not only promotes and maintains the normal bacterial flora within the digestive tract, but the pineapple contains an enzyme (papain) that is thought to help dissolve any hair that has been eaten. Rabbits engage in relatively uncommon but normal behavior when they deliberately eat small, soft, moist (often mucus covered), light green fecal pellets directly from the anus. These special night stools are especially rich in protein, vitamins and minerals. Rabbits must obtain these nutrients in this fashion. This behavior is most often carried out in the early morning hours and is rarely observed by rabbit wners. Sometimes, however, they choose not to eat the night pellets, and you may notice these slightly different droppings in the morning. Housing Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. Indoor rabbits should be confined to a suitable enclosure when their activity cannot be adequately supervised. A roomy wire cage with at least one-half of the floor’s surface area covered with Plexiglas or washable towels is recommended. The Plexiglas or towels provide relief from constant and continual contact with the wire floor, helping to prevent hutch sores on the feet. A water bottle or ceramic crock, food dish and a litterbox should be provided for the rabbit inside the enclosure. Under no circumstances should rabbits be allowed total freedom within the home. Rabbits love to chew and can be very destructive to household furnishings. Furthermore, they can be seriously injured by biting into telephone and electrical cords. Like cats, rabbits can be easily trained to use a littterbox in the home. If the rabbit has already selected an area for elimination, the litterbox should be placed in this location. It helps to place some of the rabbit’s fecal pellets in the litter box to encourage its use. Rabbits housed outdoors should be confined in roomy wire cages with Plexiglas covering about one-half of the floor’s surface area. The wire mesh should be just large enough to allow fecal pellets to drop through. A water bottle or ceramic crock and a heavy food dish should be provided. Adequate shade and a hiding spot should be provided as well. Rabbits are typically anxious, wary animals and are easily frightened. This is especially true of newly acquired pet rabbits and rabbits kept for reasons other than as pet. A concealed area into which these rabbits can retreat when they feel threatened is necessary to prevent injury that would result from excessive and futile efforts to escape from the cage. Hiding provides a safe alternative to useless and often injurious escape efforts. Shade must be provided to prevent heat stress or heat stroke. All rabbits, even those housed indoors, are especially sensitive to high environmental temperatures. Adequate shelter must also be provided against wind, rain, snow and ice.
Rabbits
Rabbits make wonderful pets. They are fluffy and soft, respond well to handling, and can learn to use a litter box. There are even different breeds of rabbit! Rabbits make wonderful pets. They are fluffy and soft, respond well to handling, and can learn to use a litter box. There are even different breeds of rabbit! For example, some have straight ears, some have floppy ears, some are normal size, and some are dwarf sized. Rabbits can live for 5 – 10 years. Rabbits have very strong hind legs and sharp claws. They also have a very light skeleton. If you handle your bunny improperly, he may kick his legs so hard that he breaks his back! When you carry him, always support his rear end. If he struggles, put him down, until he is quiet. If You Choose a Pet Rabbit You should make sure that you are purchasing a healthy bunny. It is best to select a young bunny. He should have clear eyes and a nose free of any mucus. The bunny should be curious and friendly. Check to see the bunny has been spayed or neutered. Most are breeders and pet stores do not alter their pets. You will want to have your new friend spayed or neutered between 4 and 6 months age. An altered pet will reduce the risk of that famous bunny reproduction and will prevent certain health and behavioral problems. In the United States, bunnies do not typically require vaccines, but be sure to check with your veterinarian to confirm the protocol in your area. Bunnies do, however, require vaccines in the United Kingdom. They always need annual check ups and fecal tests for parasites.
Barns to Pastureland
As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. If you are to get the best from your horse, it is vital that you provide him with a happy, comfortable and safe home environment. This applies whether he is kept in a horse barn or in a field. As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. Many owners favor the combined system, where a horse lives out during the winter days, but comes into the stable on the cold nights. Similarly, during the summer, many horses can benefit from coming into the stable during the day time if they have a tendency to put on too much weight because of the long grass, or are particularly aggravated by flies and insects. A horse in hard work may be better kept in a stable where he can be easily accessed for work and where owners can ensure that feed and care is being administered correctly, under the close supervision of the caregiver. Often times horses in training are heavily blanketed during the winter months and do not develop a hair coat that is heavy enough to keep them warm outside. Whichever method you choose, your horse’s comfort and safety should be of paramount importance. Horse Barns It is generally considered that the best form of stabling is a loose box where the horse has the freedom to move, turn around and lie down. The absolute minimum sizes should be 3 x 3.5 m (10 x 12 ft) for a pony and 3.5 x 4.25 m (12 x 14 ft) for a horse. Never compromise on space! Although many of today’s modern stables are made of wood, as they are cheaper, brick is warmer and not a fire hazard. Non-slip flooring is essential. Ideally, opt for a floor made of concrete or rubber. Bedding is very much a matter of personal preference. Most owners use either straw or wood shavings, depending on availability. If a horse has a dust allergy, it is best to use paper. A useful added extra is a kicking board where a horse that kicks out can be prevented from damaging either himself or the structure of the stable. Fixed lighting in a stable is useful (although not essential) if you intend to do any stable work in the evening. Switches should ALWAYS be out of the horse’s reach with lights well out of reach or covered with metal mesh. Bolts on doors should, ideally, be horse-proof, although as an extra precaution a kick-over bolt can be installed that is sufficient to deter any budding Houdini! Fittings should include two tie rings, one at eye level for the hay-net and one at chest level, to tie the horse up. Mangers are sometimes built into the structure of the stable. However, buckets that hang over the door can be purchased if no suitable structure is available. Some stables have automatic water dispensers, which are convenient, but they also make it difficult to monitor the horse’s drinking patterns. Pastureland There should be approximately 1.5 acre for every horse or pony that is living in the field, although this can be slightly smaller if horses are turned out for a shorter period. Fencing should be made of a safe material such as post and rails and should be at least 1.3 m (4 ft 6 in) high. Hedges are generally safe, although they should be regularly checked for holes that would look appealing to a mischievous pony. Fresh water should always be available, either in the form of a running stream or in a suitable container. A shelter is also a useful addition to a field; it provides a windbreak in the winter and a fly shelter in the summer. All fields should be checked regularly for gaps in fences, poisonous plants and any litter that may be eaten by your horse. It is vital to remember to check your horse or pony at least once a day to ensure that he has not injured himself in the field. The key to success, when deciding upon the type of accommodation that’s right for your horse, is to ensure that he is happy, safe and warm. A horse that needs to be stabled permanently will almost certainly enjoy an hour or so in an appropriate field to let off steam. Similarly, a horse that always lives out may appreciate having the warmth of a stable in times of extreme cold.
Food & Nutrition
If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. From your point of view, as the caregiver, it is important to familiarize your horse with being handled-and of course, it is always gratifying to have a horse with a clean and smart appearance. Feeding your horse correctly is a vital element of effective horse care. A horse’s natural grazing pattern is ‘eat a little and eat often.’ Mimicking this, as closely as possible, is a good way of ensuring a healthy, nutritional balance. Food has the same purpose for horses as it does for humans. It provides energy and warmth. It stimulates growth and the vital strength required by the body to repair itself. For a normal balanced diet, aim for two-thirds carbohydrate, one-sixth protein and one-sixth fat. Factors that Influence Equine Nutrition A horse that is able to graze freely during the summer months and is not in hard work probably requires little supplementary feeding. Throughout the winter months, however, when grass provides very little nourishment, horses should be fed supplementary hay on a regular basis. Hard feeds (sometimes referred to as complete feeds, or grain supplements) should be fed to horses that are in hard work, or are particularly young or old. Generally, the following elements affect the amount and type of horse feed: Time of Year – All horses require more feed in the winter to maintain a suitable body temperature. Workload – Horses in hard work require more hard food such as oats, grains, barley and pelleted feed. Temperament – A high-strung horse is best fed cooling mixes, whereas a more sluggish horse may benefit from heating feeds such as oats. Size – Pay attention to your horse’s weight, rather than size, when determining the amount of feed required. A horse should be fed approximately 2.5% of its body weight daily. Age – Bear in mind that a horse’s digestive system functions at its best between the ages of eight and twelve years. Younger horses require more protein for growth, whereas older horses require food that is easily digested. Quality of Grazing – A horse will graze continually, given the chance! It is necessary, therefore, to take into account the amount of time that your horse spends out in the field and the quality of the pasture or grass. Horse Feeds Hay is the main bulk food given to horses. It acts as a grass supplement for stabled horses or for horses on poor grazing land. Hay contains essential minerals and proteins and aids digestion. Compound Feeds (complete feeds) in the form of either pelleted feed or mixes contain the correct balance of all essential nutrients. Several mixtures are available for horses engaged in different levels of work, or at different stages of life. This type of feed is particularly suitable for one-horse owners or inexperienced owners. Oats are an excellent horse feed as they contain the correct balance of nutrients. However, care is required, as some horses tend to become over-excited on this type of feed. Barley adds flesh to horses and can often tempt a horse that is not, for whatever reason, eating sufficient bulk. Maize/Corn is a very fattening, high calorie feed and should be fed with caution. Sugar Beet pulp should be soaked for 24 hours and is an excellent feed for adding weight or for improving a horse’s condition. However, it is not suitable for horses in hard work. Above all, apply common sense when deciding upon the mix that is most appropriate to your particular horse’s temperament, lifestyle and workload. Introduce any dietary changes gradually. If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. The Essential Nutrients • Carbohydrates • Fats • Proteins • Fiber • Vitamins • Minerals • Water Golden Rules for Equine Nutrition: • Clean water should be available at all times. • Feed small amounts as often as possible and stick to regular feeding times. • Feed the correct proportion of bulk and concentrates, depending on your horse’s workload. • Leave four hours between feedings. • Always provide salt ‘free choice,’ particularly during the summer and especially for horses in hard work. • Leave at least an hour between feeding and exercise. • Feed a fruit or vegetable, such as apples and carrots, every day. • Never interrupt a horse while it is eating.
Horse Health
Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease. Horse Health Looking after a horse is a complicated and, at times, trying experience. Part of a well horse health program includes routine vaccination and deworming. In addition to caring for the inside, however, two simple ways to maintain horse health are regular grooming and equine massage. Vaccinations Vaccinations for influenza and tetanus should be given to all horses. These should be followed up with annual boosters. A horse that is a frequent traveler to shows and competitions, for instance, should also be vaccinated against additional diseases, such as strangles. If in doubt, take precautionary measures and discuss the risks with your local vet. Worms Deworming is another vital aspect of your well horse health program. Without regular treatment all horses become hosts to worms that can cause lasting internal damage.There are many different types of worms that can infect your horse. Some worms are more prevalent in certain regions, and weather or seasonal conditions. In order to ensure that all worms are completely eradicated, it is essential to administer a broad spectrum dewormer according to the label directions. The active ingredient Ivermectin is an excellent broad-spectrum product that has proven safety and efficacy. According to the manufacturer, there is no evidence of ‘resistance’ associated with the use of Ivermectin. If you are concerned about resistance and choose to rotate dewormers, make sure you rotate between active ingredients-not brands. Active ingredients are the drugs or chemicals that actually kill the worms. If you are unsure about developing your own program ask your vet to recommend a deworming protocol. General Deworming Rules of Thumb As a matter of routine, all new arrivals on a yard should be dewormed and isolated for 24 hours. Similarly, all horses should be stabled for 24 hours following deworming to prevent contamination of pastureland. Grooming & Equine Massage for Better Horse Health Never underestimate the power of grooming! A stabled horse should be groomed daily. Field-kept horses also need regular grooming. In the case of the latter, particular care should be taken not to remove the essential oils from the animal’s coat, as the horse that lives outdoors during the winter months requires extra warmth and protection. Grooming has several functions. Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease.
Examining Your Horse
In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Even if you fall in love with the horse, do not buy it before the animal has been thoroughly examined by a veterinarian with experience in performing purchase examinations. Long-time horse owners almost always have a veterinarian examine any animal before purchase and first-time owners should certainly do so. Your Veterinarian will check the horse for: Age General Condition – alertness, health of the eyes, ears, heart, lungs, digestive system Health of skin & coat Soundness of Musculoskeletal System – limbs evaluated, conformation abnormalities noted, and the condition of the feet and type of shoeing observed Internal & External Parasites (Worms & Ticks) In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Horses are unpredictable creatures and accidents do happen! Essential first aid should always be at hand, including the important items that every standard equine first aid kit should contain.
Horses
Before you purchase a horse, decide where you will keep the animal and how much it will cost. In many instances, the purchase price is not as much as the annual boarding fee. Owning a horse is a big responsibility. It requires a commitment of both time and money. The new owner should be prepared to spend time grooming, exercising, and caring for the animal, or assume the responsibility to see that the basic care will be performed daily. Unless the horse is kept on the owner’s property, travel time to and from the stable must be considered. The costs of owning a horse can add up quickly as you provide shelter, feed, medical care, shoeing, and riding equipment. If You Choose A Pet Horse Before buying a horse for their children, parents would be wise to reinforce the child’s commitment. Arrange with a local stable for lessons for your youngster. Give your child the opportunity to participate in supervised care of a horse for a month or two. If the youngster “sticks” with the chores of horse ownership, he or she is probably responsible enough to own one. Before you purchase a horse, decide where you will keep the animal and how much it will cost. In many instances the purchase price is not as much as the annual boarding fee. If you live on property that can support a horse – legally and physically – be sure that you have adequate stabling. If you live in a cold climate, you might want to consider boarding the animal, at least during the winter months, at a stable with an indoor arena. Riding in freezing weather is unpleasant and can even be dangerous for both horse and rider. What Kind of Horse Should You Get? Because riding is a team sport – of the horse and rider – it is important that you buy a horse that suits the temperament and style of the rider. A nervous, fearful rider should have a calm horse that will not react in kind. A child should not have a horse or pony that will bolt. An experienced rider will want a sensitive horse that responds to the slightest commands.Before you decide to buy a horse of your own, you should already have some riding experience or have taken riding lessons. Once you understand your riding abilities and limitations, you will be in a better position to choose a horse with a temperament that will suit you.You should also consider the type of riding you intend to do. “English” riders may want a purely pleasure horse for riding “on the flat.” Other “English” riders may want a horse that will jump, or even one that can be taken on the hunt field. “Western” riders may want a horse to use for trail riding, working cattle, or other “Western” show events.Whichever style of riding you prefer, it is best if the first horse you buy is already “schooled.” First-time horse owners should avoid younger animals that require a lot of training. An older horse that already has the skills you need is usually a better buy for the first-time owner and younger rider. Where Do You Look For a Horse? A good place to buy a horse is the stable where you ride or plan to keep the horse. The stable owner has an interest in keeping you satisfied, and knowing your abilities and temperament he or she can suggest a suitable animal. Riding instructors are also good agents for locating a suitable horse since it is important to them that their students do well in competition.Breeders are another good source. Generally they want to see their animals well placed and will make every effort to provide a horse you can enjoy. Most every breed has a registration association that can direct you to breeders in your area. A common source is the classified section of your local newspaper or the bulletin board of your local tack shop. Here you have little knowledge of the seller and little recourse should the horse purchase prove unsatisfactory. Trying Out the Horse When going to look at an animal, the first-time buyer should be accompanied by a knowledgeable horseman or horsewoman. There is so much to observe and so much to ask that the inexperienced buyer may have trouble remembering it all. Observe the horse in the stall and pasture, and how it behaves when someone is loading, hauling, and catching the horse.Temperament should be most important to you – leave health to the experts. Look at the horse’s eyes and ears and general manner when it is brought out. Does it look alert? Be sure that you look at the animal in a well-lit place, preferably outdoors in the sunlight. Watch the owner saddle up the horse. Does it stand quietly? Does it kick or bite? Do not buy a horse with bad stable manners. Do not get on the animal right away. Ask the owner to ride the horse first. Watch how the animal acts when mounted – does it stand still or does it dance around? Ask the owner to take the horse through its gaits, the walk, trot, and canter. Does it look smooth? Does it toss its head or fight the bit? If you are buying a hunter or jumper or other specially trained horse, ask the owner to demonstrate.If you and your adviser are satisfied that the horse is safe for you to ride, it is your turn to mount. Once again, observe how it reacts when you mount, and how it reacts to your commands. Try out any special skills that the horse has. This is a major investment and you should be allowed to test the animal thoroughly. You could make observations on a second visit that you did not see the first time. Many times a brief trial period (7-10 days) can be arranged for the prospective buyer. This allows the buyer to have the horse and see
Zebra Finches
Zebra finches are arguably the most popular bird species found in the North American pet trade. They are attractive birds with red-orange beaks. In general, finches have an expected lifespan of anywhere from 5-15 years. The wide range here can probably be attributed to species differences as well as an increased understanding of their husbandry, especially diet. Zebra finches are arguably the most popular bird species found in the North American pet trade. They are attractive birds, and the males are easily distinguished from the females. The males have black and white bars on the throat and breast, orange cheek patches and brown on the sides of the body. Both males and females have red-orange beaks, although the male’s is much brighter in hue. The above description applies to the wild type coloration; a wide variety of color mutations are now available. Cage Size As mentioned above, the height of the cage is not as vital as having room to fly horizontally, so a long but shorter cage is acceptable. While experts vary in their recommended minimum size, it a good idea to get the largest cage you can. 30 inches long, by 18 inches high and 18 inches wide is a good sized cage for a pair of zebra finches. If you are going to get a larger group, you’ll need an aviary or flight cage. This can be home built, but keep in mind that excellent hygiene is a must so any cage should be easy to clean. Wire spacing should be 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Furnishing & Toys Supply a variety of perches, but make sure the cage is not so cluttered that the finches cannot fly back and forth (keep an open flight path through the length of the cage). Also, use a couple of different sized dowels and try to add some natural branches as perches too, perhaps angling them to provide further variety so their feet are not always holding onto perches in exactly the same way. Small clip on perches can be used for some of the perches, and are nice since they do not span the whole cage and offer a little privacy in an aviary situation since only one or two finches can sit on one at a time. If possible, provide some plant cover at the perches to allow for privacy (also more important if keeping a group). You can use silk plants or non-toxic live plants. Swings and ladders can also be provided, although ladders are more likely to be used as perches than for climbing. Small bells or hanging toys can also be included, although finches are generally not very interested in toys. Cage Placement You’ll want the finch cage in a quiet secure location in your home (although in warmer climates finches can be acclimated to outdoor aviaries). Avoid direct sunlight (overheating risk) as well draughts or being to close to heat or air conditioning ducts. Finches do not crave social interaction with people so unlike parrots do not need to be in a busy social part of the home, and in fact will probably be less stressed if kept in a quiet corner. Water & Feed Dishes Provide fresh drinking water daily. Some keepers prefer tube style water dispensers, while others use dishes either attached to the cage (with perches for access) or on the floor (place away from perches to reduce soiling with feces). Whichever you use, make sure there is always a supply of fresh clean water available, and clean water dished daily. Food dishes can also be placed on the floor (also not under perches, of course) or attached to the side of the cage. Again, these need to be cleaned daily. Bath A shallow dish of water should be provided several times a week for bathing. The water in the bath should be clean so remove the bath water as soon as it becomes soiled. Lighting Some people use full spectrum lighting for their finches. This is helpful especially in controlling molting and breeding behavior, but isn’t strictly necessary for the average pet zebra finch. Seeds Feed a good quality finch seed mix, although this should never the the sole diet of your finches. Check that the seeds are fresh by sprouting them (put some in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel) – if they will not sprout then they are too old to feed. Millet sprays are a favorite treat of many finches but should be given sparingly, or the finches may develop a preference for millet. Sprouted Seeds This is an excellent way to boost nutrition as the seeds are at the peak of their nutritional value at sprouting. Ideally they should be fed just as they begin to sprout. Greens & Fresh Foods A variety of green should be provided, such as romaine lettuce, dandelion greens, kale, and spinach (in moderation), along with a variety of fresh vegetables and fruits (NO avocado, though). Experiment to find what they like and keep offering a variety as it may take your finches a few tries to accept new food items. Remember, though, that serving sizes of these foods should be small. Pellets These are excellent balanced diets and are nice to offer as part of a varied and balanced diet. Be sure to get a good quality pellet sespecially formulated for finches, and you may need to be persistent in offering pellets before your finches will try them if they are not used to eating them. Eggfood This is a supplement that is very important for breeding birds but that can be fed in moderation to non-breeders as well. Cuttlebone & Grit Some sort of calcium supplement is recommended and a cuttlebone is an easy way to add calcium to the diet, as are crushed oyster shells or even eggshells (heat thoroughly before crushing to prevent salmonella contamination). The role of grit is still highly debated. It is now quite widely accepted that parrots do not need grit,
Lovebirds
Lovebirds are very social and form deep bonds with their owners. If you are short on time to spend with your lovebird, then it is best to get him or her a companion. Species: There are several species of lovebirds, such as the genus Agapornis. But the most commonly found species in the pet trade include peach faced lovebirds, or Agapornis roseicollis, masked lovebirds (Agapornis personata) and Fischer’s lovebirds (Agapornis fischeri). There are many color mutations found in peach faced lovebirds and several mutations in some of the other species, so there are many color variations of lovebirds available. Size: Lovebirds are small, compact parrots about 5-6 inches in length. Expected Life Span: Up to 15 years or more. Temperament Very active, curious, and playful, lovebirds pack a lot of personality into a small package. They are also feisty little birds. They are very social and form deep bonds with their owners and are sometimes very cuddly birds, but their intense personalities can also make them prone to nipping and territorial aggressiveness and jealousy. Hand-raised babies make the best pets. Some experts believe that females are more prone to jealousy and territoriality than males. Find a Hand-Raised Baby Hand-raised babies definitely make the best pets. Still, regular handling and training are needed to maintain a tame lovebird (so a hand raised baby that hasn’t been handled much as it gets older may be hard to hand tame again). If getting an older lovebird try to find one that was hand raised and has been handled regularly and has some training. Older lovebirds that are not hand tamed may require a great deal of patience for taming. Social Needs – A Common Myth A common myth about keeping lovebirds is that they should always be kept in pairs. If you have more than one lovebird they may become more deeply bonded to each other that to you. A single lovebird will do well, as long as it gets the social interaction, contact, affection, and attention that it needs from its human family members. If you are short on time to spend with your lovebird, then it is best to get him or her a companion, though. Vocalizations and Speech While not as loud as some larger parrots, lovebirds can produce a loud high pitched screech, especially if looking for your attention. Their normal chirps and squawks are not overly loud, but they do like to chatter. As a general rule, they are not known for their ability to mimic speech or sounds, although there are exceptions. Some say females are more apt to mimic sounds or speech than males. Housing Lovebirds As a bare minimum, I would recommend a cage at least 2 feet wide by 2 feet long (and 2 feet tall), but a larger cage is definitely better (with the length being relatively more important than the height). Bars should be no more than 1/2 to 5/8 inches apart, and should be oriented horizontally to allow the birds climb the sides of the cage. Avoid round cages. Provide a variety of perch sizes (including natural branches if possible) as this is healthier for a caged bird’s feet. Feeding Lovebirds Lovebirds should be fed a variety of foods. A good pellet diet can form the basis of the diet, supplemented by a variety of fresh foods and some seeds (seeds should make up less than 25 percent of the total diet). A cuttlebone can be provided for extra calcium. Toys Lovebirds are quite aggressive chewers, which must be kept in mind when choosing toys. Make sure there are no small parts that can be chewed off and ingested, and no clips, loose strings, or other parts in which your bird could get its beak, feet, or head trapped. Safe toys include wood, sisal, leather, acrylic, and rawhide toys (including hanging toys as long as they are not long enough to strangle your bird), bells, and ladders. As well, household items such as the cardboard tubes from paper towel rolls, paper cups, ink-free cardboard, and dried pasta shapes may also be used by your lovebird. Lovebirds are very active and playful so it is a good idea to have lots of toys on hand to rotate through the cage to keep them occupied. All toys including their hanging devices should be zinc and lead free. Cotton ropes are good too, but may be best used only under supervision since threads can come loose and entangle birds easily.
