Category: Horses

  As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. If you are to get the best from your horse, it is vital that you provide him with a happy, comfortable and safe home environment. This applies whether he is kept in a horse barn or in a field.  As a general rule, a particularly fine-coated horse, or one that is in hard work, needs to be stabled during cold periods. Hardier horses can live outside all year, provided that they are supplied with adequate shelter. Many owners favor the combined system, where a horse lives out during the winter days, but comes into the stable on the cold nights. Similarly, during the summer, many horses can benefit from coming into the stable during the day time if they have a tendency to put on too much weight because of the long grass, or are particularly aggravated by flies and insects.  A horse in hard work may be better kept in a stable where he can be easily accessed for work and where owners can ensure that feed and care is being administered correctly, under the close supervision of the caregiver. Often times horses in training are heavily blanketed during the winter months and do not develop a hair coat that is heavy enough to keep them warm outside.  Whichever method you choose, your horse’s comfort and safety should be of paramount importance. Horse Barns It is generally considered that the best form of stabling is a loose box where the horse has the freedom to move, turn around and lie down. The absolute minimum sizes should be 3 x 3.5 m (10 x 12 ft) for a pony and 3.5 x 4.25 m (12 x 14 ft) for a horse. Never compromise on space! Although many of today’s modern stables are made of wood, as they are cheaper, brick is warmer and not a fire hazard.  Non-slip flooring is essential. Ideally, opt for a floor made of concrete or rubber. Bedding is very much a matter of personal preference. Most owners use either straw or wood shavings, depending on availability. If a horse has a dust allergy, it is best to use paper.  A useful added extra is a kicking board where a horse that kicks out can be prevented from damaging either himself or the structure of the stable. Fixed lighting in a stable is useful (although not essential) if you intend to do any stable work in the evening. Switches should ALWAYS be out of the horse’s reach with lights well out of reach or covered with metal mesh.  Bolts on doors should, ideally, be horse-proof, although as an extra precaution a kick-over bolt can be installed that is sufficient to deter any budding Houdini!  Fittings should include two tie rings, one at eye level for the hay-net and one at chest level, to tie the horse up. Mangers are sometimes built into the structure of the stable. However, buckets that hang over the door can be purchased if no suitable structure is available. Some stables have automatic water dispensers, which are convenient, but they also make it difficult to monitor the horse’s drinking patterns. Pastureland There should be approximately 1.5 acre for every horse or pony that is living in the field, although this can be slightly smaller if horses are turned out for a shorter period. Fencing should be made of a safe material such as post and rails and should be at least 1.3 m (4 ft 6 in) high. Hedges are generally safe, although they should be regularly checked for holes that would look appealing to a mischievous pony.  Fresh water should always be available, either in the form of a running stream or in a suitable container.  A shelter is also a useful addition to a field; it provides a windbreak in the winter and a fly shelter in the summer.  All fields should be checked regularly for gaps in fences, poisonous plants and any litter that may be eaten by your horse. It is vital to remember to check your horse or pony at least once a day to ensure that he has not injured himself in the field.  The key to success, when deciding upon the type of accommodation that’s right for your horse, is to ensure that he is happy, safe and warm. A horse that needs to be stabled permanently will almost certainly enjoy an hour or so in an appropriate field to let off steam. Similarly, a horse that always lives out may appreciate having the warmth of a stable in times of extreme cold.

If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. From your point of view, as the caregiver, it is important to familiarize your horse with being handled-and of course, it is always gratifying to have a horse with a clean and smart appearance.  Feeding your horse correctly is a vital element of effective horse care. A horse’s natural grazing pattern is ‘eat a little and eat often.’ Mimicking this, as closely as possible, is a good way of ensuring a healthy, nutritional balance. Food has the same purpose for horses as it does for humans. It provides energy and warmth. It stimulates growth and the vital strength required by the body to repair itself. For a normal balanced diet, aim for two-thirds carbohydrate, one-sixth protein and one-sixth fat. Factors that Influence Equine Nutrition A horse that is able to graze freely during the summer months and is not in hard work probably requires little supplementary feeding. Throughout the winter months, however, when grass provides very little nourishment, horses should be fed supplementary hay on a regular basis. Hard feeds (sometimes referred to as complete feeds, or grain supplements) should be fed to horses that are in hard work, or are particularly young or old. Generally, the following elements affect the amount and type of horse feed: Time of Year – All horses require more feed in the winter to maintain a suitable body temperature. Workload – Horses in hard work require more hard food such as oats, grains, barley and pelleted feed. Temperament – A high-strung horse is best fed cooling mixes, whereas a more sluggish horse may benefit from heating feeds such as oats. Size – Pay attention to your horse’s weight, rather than size, when determining the amount of feed required. A horse should be fed approximately 2.5% of its body weight daily. Age – Bear in mind that a horse’s digestive system functions at its best between the ages of eight and twelve years. Younger horses require more protein for growth, whereas older horses require food that is easily digested. Quality of Grazing – A horse will graze continually, given the chance! It is necessary, therefore, to take into account the amount of time that your horse spends out in the field and the quality of the pasture or grass. Horse Feeds Hay is the main bulk food given to horses. It acts as a grass supplement for stabled horses or for horses on poor grazing land. Hay contains essential minerals and proteins and aids digestion. Compound Feeds (complete feeds) in the form of either pelleted feed or mixes contain the correct balance of all essential nutrients. Several mixtures are available for horses engaged in different levels of work, or at different stages of life. This type of feed is particularly suitable for one-horse owners or inexperienced owners. Oats are an excellent horse feed as they contain the correct balance of nutrients. However, care is required, as some horses tend to become over-excited on this type of feed. Barley adds flesh to horses and can often tempt a horse that is not, for whatever reason, eating sufficient bulk. Maize/Corn is a very fattening, high calorie feed and should be fed with caution. Sugar Beet pulp should be soaked for 24 hours and is an excellent feed for adding weight or for improving a horse’s condition. However, it is not suitable for horses in hard work. Above all, apply common sense when deciding upon the mix that is most appropriate to your particular horse’s temperament, lifestyle and workload. Introduce any dietary changes gradually. If you are uncertain about what your horse should be eating, talk with your veterinarian or ask to be referred to a reputable equine nutritionist. The Essential Nutrients • Carbohydrates • Fats • Proteins • Fiber • Vitamins • Minerals • Water Golden Rules for Equine Nutrition: • Clean water should be available at all times. • Feed small amounts as often as possible and stick to regular feeding times. • Feed the correct proportion of bulk and concentrates, depending on your horse’s workload. • Leave four hours between feedings. • Always provide salt ‘free choice,’ particularly during the summer and especially for horses in hard work. • Leave at least an hour between feeding and exercise. • Feed a fruit or vegetable, such as apples and carrots, every day. • Never interrupt a horse while it is eating.

Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease. Horse Health Looking after a horse is a complicated and, at times, trying experience. Part of a well horse health program includes routine vaccination and deworming. In addition to caring for the inside, however, two simple ways to maintain horse health are regular grooming and equine massage. Vaccinations Vaccinations for influenza and tetanus should be given to all horses. These should be followed up with annual boosters. A horse that is a frequent traveler to shows and competitions, for instance, should also be vaccinated against additional diseases, such as strangles. If in doubt, take precautionary measures and discuss the risks with your local vet. Worms Deworming is another vital aspect of your well horse health program. Without regular treatment all horses become hosts to worms that can cause lasting internal damage.There are many different types of worms that can infect your horse. Some worms are more prevalent in certain regions, and weather or seasonal conditions. In order to ensure that all worms are completely eradicated, it is essential to administer a broad spectrum dewormer according to the label directions. The active ingredient Ivermectin is an excellent broad-spectrum product that has proven safety and efficacy. According to the manufacturer, there is no evidence of ‘resistance’ associated with the use of Ivermectin.  If you are concerned about resistance and choose to rotate dewormers, make sure you rotate between active ingredients-not brands.  Active ingredients are the drugs or chemicals that actually kill the worms. If you are unsure about developing your own program ask your vet to recommend a deworming protocol. General Deworming Rules of Thumb As a matter of routine, all new arrivals on a yard should be dewormed and isolated for 24 hours. Similarly, all horses should be stabled for 24 hours following deworming to prevent contamination of pastureland. Grooming & Equine Massage for Better Horse Health Never underestimate the power of grooming! A stabled horse should be groomed daily. Field-kept horses also need regular grooming. In the case of the latter, particular care should be taken not to remove the essential oils from the animal’s coat, as the horse that lives outdoors during the winter months requires extra warmth and protection. Grooming has several functions. Effective grooming not only maintains cleanliness and condition, but as a form of equine massage, also plays an important role in promoting circulation and preventing disease.

In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Even if you fall in love with the horse, do not buy it before the animal has been thoroughly examined by a veterinarian with experience in performing purchase examinations. Long-time horse owners almost always have a veterinarian examine any animal before purchase and first-time owners should certainly do so. Your Veterinarian will check the horse for: Age General Condition – alertness, health of the eyes, ears, heart, lungs, digestive system Health of skin & coat Soundness of Musculoskeletal System – limbs evaluated, conformation abnormalities noted, and the condition of the feet and type of shoeing observed Internal & External Parasites (Worms & Ticks) In order to maintain the highest level of health it is essential you discuss horse care issues such as grooming, vaccinations and deworming with your Veterinarian. Horses are unpredictable creatures and accidents do happen! Essential first aid should always be at hand, including the important items that every standard equine first aid kit should contain.